Last updated: October 21, 2026. General information. Your pump’s manual comes first, and anything involving electricity or plumbing repairs may need a licensed professional.
A sump pump does nothing for months and then has to work perfectly during the worst storm of the year. That is why many failures are not mysterious: the pump was unplugged, the float was stuck, the pit was full of silt, or the discharge was blocked. A short check a couple of times a year can catch many of them. This checklist combines guidance from a city, an insurer and a contractor’s page.
How often to check
| Task | How often | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Full inspection and test | At least twice a year, ideally before spring snowmelt | City of Ann Arbor |
| Quick test with a bucket of water | Every few months | Farmers Insurance |
| Clean the pump and pit | Twice a year | Farmers Insurance |
| Inspect the discharge line | Every 3 to 4 months and before winter | Farmers Insurance |
| Check the battery backup | Per manufacturer; keep it charged and replace on schedule | Farmers Insurance |
| Backflow preventer inspection by a licensed plumber | Every 3 years | City of Ann Arbor |
Both sources say your manufacturer’s instructions take priority over general advice.
Before you start: safety
- Unplug the pump before any hands-on work, as Ann Arbor advises.
- Test the GFCI protection on the outlet using its test button.
- Plug the pump directly into a wall outlet rather than an extension cord (Farmers).
- Do not work in a flooded basement with live electricity nearby. Call a professional.
The step-by-step test
- Check power. Confirm the outlet works and the GFCI is not tripped.
- Open the cover. Covers may be one piece, two pieces or clear plexiglass sealed to the floor. Clear covers have to be resealed afterward, which also helps limit radon entry (Ann Arbor).
- Clear the pit. Remove silt, rocks, mud and pipe fragments that could block the float or impeller. A little sand at the bottom is normal, but heavy sediment suggests a problem with the footing drain and calls for a qualified contractor (Ann Arbor).
- Check the float. It should move freely and not catch on the pit walls, pipes or other objects.
- Run the test. Slowly pour a bucket of water into the pit. The float should rise, the pump should start, water should leave through the discharge pipe, and the pump should shut off when the water drops (Farmers). Ann Arbor suggests adding a few gallons of water.
- Inspect the discharge pipe. Look for corrosion, holes, leaks and loose mounting. Make sure the small weep hole above the pump is open, since it prevents airlocks, and that the outdoor discharge point and air gap are clear of debris.
- Confirm there is a check valve on the discharge line just above the sump. If there is not one, Ann Arbor says a licensed plumber should add it.
- Finish up. Reconnect plugs, confirm breakers are on, and reseal any plexiglass cover.
Cleaning the pump and pit
Farmers recommends cleaning twice a year: unplug the pump, remove it if you can, clear dirt and sediment, wipe the exterior and clean the intake screen, then reinstall and restore power. If you find heavy sediment each time, that is a clue that something upstream, such as the drain system, needs attention.
Battery backup and water-powered backup
- Battery backup. Check the battery water level where applicable, confirm the backup activates only when the primary pump fails, and test the high-water alarm if you have one (Ann Arbor). Keep it charged and replace the battery on the manufacturer’s schedule, which Farmers says is often every few years.
- Water-powered backup. Confirm the water supply valve is open and test that the backup runs (Ann Arbor).
Backup power matters because storms often cause outages. For what backups cost, see our sump pump buyer’s guide.
Warning signs to act on
- The pump runs constantly or will not start.
- Grinding, rattling or heavy vibration.
- Rust or debris on the pump.
- A musty or burnt smell.
- Water in the pit that does not go down.
Farmers recommends having the pump checked if any of these appear. Our troubleshooting guide covers common causes.
How long pumps last
Farmers and Estes Services both say many sump pumps last about 7 to 10 years, depending on how often they run and how well they are maintained. A pump that is older than that and runs frequently is a candidate for planned replacement before it fails, rather than during a storm. Our buyer’s guide explains what to look for.
Insurance: check before you need it
Farmers notes that standard homeowners insurance typically does not cover water backup damage unless you add water backup coverage, and that failures from normal wear and tear usually are not covered. Read your policy or ask your agent. This is general information, not coverage advice.
A simple yearly calendar
- Early spring (before snowmelt or heavy rain): full inspection, clean the pit and pump, test backup.
- Mid-year: bucket test and discharge line check.
- Fall (before freezing weather): inspect the discharge line for clogs, cracks and ice risk, clear the outdoor outlet.
- Any time after a big storm or power outage: quick test.
If the pump runs a lot
A pump that cycles constantly is telling you a lot of water is arriving. Fixing grading and gutters is often a cheaper first step than replacing pumps, so see our exterior drainage guide, and compare solutions in French drain vs. sump pump.
Keep a simple log
Write the date and result of each test on a card taped near the pit, along with the pump model and the battery replacement date. If a problem develops, the history helps a plumber diagnose it quickly, and it shows you when a pump is approaching the 7 to 10 years that Farmers and Estes Services cite.
How we put this guide together
This guide was drafted with AI assistance and then edited for the site against the public sources listed below. We are not plumbers or electricians. Schedules are drawn from the City of Ann Arbor and Farmers Insurance; always defer to your manufacturer. If you spot an error, use the contact page and we will correct it.
